Seeing a fault code on your Buderus boiler? This guide explains what the most common Buderus boiler error codes mean, what’s safe to check yourself, and when to call HeatLand’s licensed, TSBC-certified gas technicians for Buderus boiler repair across Metro Vancouver and the Fraser Valley.
The codes below apply across common Buderus models (Logamax plus GB142, GB162, GB192i). Meanings follow Buderus’s documented fault codes — always confirm against your unit’s own manual, because exact wording can vary by model, control board and firmware.
How to read Buderus boiler error codes
Buderus Logamax plus GB-series boilers (GB142, GB162, and the newer GB172/GB192i) use the Bosch UBA3 burner control with a BC10/BC20 basic controller. The display shows a 2-character main code (e.g. 6A, 2E, 4C, 3L, 8Y) for combustion/safety faults, or an A-/H- code (e.g. A01, A11, H07) for EMS controller/sensor faults, paired with a 3-digit UBA3 sub-code (e.g. 227, 224, 207, 306) that pinpoints the exact cause. The combined code (main + sub, such as '6A 227') is what should be quoted to a technician. A flashing code means a LOCKING fault (lockout requiring a manual reset); a steady code is usually a BLOCKING fault that clears on its own once the condition is corrected. Reset is done by pressing the 'Reset' button for about 5 seconds — the display shows 'rE' while resetting. A red LED on the UBA3 corresponds to the displayed fault.
Buderus boiler acting up in Metro Vancouver? HeatLand’s licensed, TSBC-certified gas technicians diagnose and repair Buderus boilers across Greater Vancouver — including units we didn’t install.
Call (604) 330-3812Get a free repair estimateNo heat? Emergency repairBuderus boiler error codes & what they mean
These are the Buderus boiler codes our Greater Vancouver technicians see most. Anything marked pro repair involves gas, electrical, sealed-combustion or control-board work that must be done by a licensed gas technician (TSBC-certified in BC) — never open gas or electrical components yourself.
| Code | What it usually means | Common causes | Safe to check yourself |
|---|---|---|---|
| — (flashing dash) | Blocking fault: no communication between the UBA3 burner control and the BC10 basic controller (no heating, no DHW) pro repair | Loose or corroded ribbon/connector between BC10 and UBA3; Failed BC10 controller; Failed UBA3 control board | Switch the boiler off at its power switch, wait a minute, and switch it back on; Try a single reset (hold Reset ~5 seconds) |
| 0Y / 276 | Locking fault: the flow temperature sensor measured a flow temperature above 203 F (95 C) — overheat pro repair | Insufficient water flow / low system pressure; Seized or air-locked circulator pump; Closed isolation valves or blocked heat exchanger | Check the system pressure gauge is in the normal green band (about 12-22 psi) and top up only if you know how; Confirm radiator/zone isolation valves are open; Allow the boiler to cool, then try a single reset |
| 0Y / 277 | Locking fault: the safety temperature sensor measured a flow temperature above 203 F (95 C) — overheat pro repair | Low water flow / low system pressure; Blocked or air-bound circulator; Scaled or blocked heat exchanger | Check system pressure on the gauge and top up only if familiar with the procedure; Let the boiler cool down, then try a single reset |
| 1A / 316 | Blocking fault: the flue gas sensor temperature is too high (no heating, no DHW) pro repair | Blocked or restricted flue/condensate path; Fouled or scaled heat exchanger; Low water flow allowing high flue temperatures | Check the condensate drain/trap is clear and not frozen or blocked; Confirm the flue terminal outside is not obstructed; Let the unit cool, then try a single reset |
| 1L / 211 | Locking fault: no connection between UBA3 terminals 78 and 50 (external safety interlock open) — no heating, no DHW pro repair | Open external limit / interlock device wired to the boiler; Broken or disconnected interlock wiring/jumper | Confirm the boiler has power and any external thermostat is calling for heat |
| 2E / 207 | Locking fault: system (water) pressure is too low — below 3 psi (0.2 bar). No heating, no DHW pro repair | Water lost from the system (leak or recent bleeding); System never properly filled; Faulty pressure sensor | Read the system pressure gauge — it should be roughly 12-22 psi when cold; if very low, top up via the filling loop only if you know the procedure; Look for visible water leaks around the boiler and pipes; Try a single reset once pressure is restored |
| 2F / 260 | Locking fault: after burner start-up the flow temperature sensor detected no rise in heating-water temperature pro repair | No water circulation (pump failed/air-locked); Closed valves / no flow path; Misplaced or faulty flow temperature sensor | Check system pressure on the gauge; Confirm isolation valves are open; Try a single reset |
| 2P / 271 | Locking fault: the temperature difference between the flow and safety sensors is too high (rapid/uneven heating) pro repair | Low or restricted water flow; Air in the heat exchanger; Sensor fault | Check system pressure on the gauge; Try a single reset |
| 2U / 213 | Locking fault: temperature difference between flow and return sensors is more than 122 F (50 C) pro repair | Very low water flow / partial blockage; Seized circulator pump; Sensor fault | Check system pressure on the gauge; Try a single reset |
| 2Y / 281 | Locking fault: the pump has stopped or is running without water (dry running) pro repair | Loss of system water/pressure; Air-locked or seized circulator pump; Wiring fault to the pump | Check the system pressure gauge and top up only if you know the procedure; Try a single reset once pressure is normal |
| 3A / 264 | Locking fault: the fan tacho (speed feedback) signal failed during operation pro repair | Failing combustion fan or fan tacho; Loose fan wiring/connector; Faulty UBA3 control | Try a single reset; if it returns, the fan needs service |
| 3C / 217 | Blocking fault: no airflow detected after a set time (no heating, no DHW) pro repair | Blocked air intake or flue; Failing combustion fan; Disconnected/blocked air-pressure sensing | Confirm the outside flue/intake terminal is clear of snow, leaves or debris; Try a single reset |
| 3F / 273 | Operating phase (safety check): the boiler switched off briefly because it had run continuously for 24 hours. Normal self-test; it restarts automatically DIY-checkable | Normal 24-hour continuous-run safety reset (not a defect) | No action needed — the boiler restarts on its own |
| 3L / 214 | Blocking fault: no fan tacho signal during the pre-operative or operating phase (no heating, no DHW) pro repair | Failing combustion fan or its tacho sensor; Loose fan connector/wiring; Faulty UBA3 control | Try a single reset; if it persists, the fan needs service |
| 3P / 216 | Blocking fault: the fan is running too slowly (no heating, no DHW) pro repair | Worn or failing combustion fan; Obstruction loading the fan; Low supply voltage / wiring fault | Confirm the flue/intake terminal is unobstructed; Try a single reset |
| 3Y / 215 | Blocking fault: the fan is running too fast (no heating, no DHW) pro repair | Fan/tacho fault; Control or wiring fault | Try a single reset; if it returns, the fan needs service |
| 4C / 224 | Blocking fault: missing bridging cable / jumper between UBA3 terminals 22 and 24 (no heating, no DHW). On some units this code reports the dual temperature-limiter (STB) overheat lockout pro repair | Missing or disconnected jumper/interlock at terminals 22-24; Tripped flue-gas or heat-exchanger temperature limiter (overheat); Low water flow / low system pressure | Check the system pressure gauge is in the normal band; Allow the boiler to cool, then try a single reset |
| 4F / 219 | Blocking fault: the safety temperature sensor detected a flow temperature over 266 F (130 C) — overheat pro repair | Severe loss of water flow; Seized pump / closed valves; Faulty safety temperature sensor | Check system pressure on the gauge; Let the boiler cool, then try a single reset |
| 4L / 220 | Blocking fault: safety temperature sensor contacts shorted, or sensor detected over 266 F (130 C) pro repair | Shorted safety temperature sensor or wiring; Genuine overheat from low flow | Check system pressure on the gauge; Let the boiler cool, then try a single reset |
| 4P / 221 | Blocking fault: the safety temperature sensor contacts have been interrupted (open circuit) pro repair | Broken sensor wire/connector; Failed safety temperature sensor | Try a single reset; if it persists, the sensor/wiring needs service |
| 6A / 227 | Ignition lockout: insufficient ionization (flame) current — flashing/locking after an unsuccessful ignition, or blocking after 4 failed start-up attempts. No heating, no DHW pro repair | Gas supply turned off or low gas pressure; Dirty or misaligned ignition/ionization electrode; Condensate blockage or air in gas line | Confirm the gas supply is on and other gas appliances work; Check the condensate drain/trap is clear; Try a single reset (one attempt only — do not repeatedly reset) |
| 6C / 228 | Blocking fault: an ionization (flame) current was detected before the burner started — false flame signal (no heating, no DHW) pro repair | Wet/dirty ionization electrode giving a false signal; Faulty gas valve allowing gas before ignition; Control/wiring fault | Try a single reset; if it persists, the unit needs service |
| 6C / 306 | Blocking fault: an ionization (flame) current was still measured after the burner shut down — flame not extinguishing properly pro repair | Gas valve not closing fully; Dirty/faulty ionization electrode; Control fault | Try a single reset; if it persists, do not keep restarting — book service |
| 6L / 229 | Blocking fault: insufficient ionization current during the operating phase — flame lost while running pro repair | Marginal gas pressure or partial gas starvation; Dirty ionization/flame electrode; Condensate or flue restriction | Confirm the gas supply is fully on; Check the condensate drain is clear; Try a single reset |
| 7C / 231 | Blocking fault: the power supply was interrupted during a locking fault (e.g. 4A/4C/4E/4F/4L/4P/4U/4Y) pro repair | Power loss while a safety lockout was active; Original underlying lockout fault still present | Restore power, then try a single reset; Note the original code if it reappears |
| 7L / 261 | Blocking fault: the UBA3 burner control is defective (no heating, no DHW) pro repair | Failed UBA3 control board; Severe electrical disturbance | Switch the boiler off and on once; if the code remains, the control needs service |
| 8Y / 232 | Operating phase: an external switch contact is open, so heating is paused (no heating). Often a wired external limit/aquastat or accessory contact pro repair | External limit/aquastat or accessory contact open; Broken external control wiring | Confirm any external thermostat/control is calling for heat and is powered |
| 9A / 235 | Blocking fault: the UBA3 control or the KIM (boiler ID module) is defective (no heating, no DHW) pro repair | Faulty or unrecognized KIM coding plug; Failed UBA3 control board | Switch off and on once; if the code stays, the unit needs service |
| 9L / 234 | Blocking fault: the gas valve contacts have been broken (open circuit to the gas valve) pro repair | Disconnected or broken gas valve wiring/connector; Faulty gas valve coil; Faulty UBA3 control | Try a single reset; if it persists, do not keep retrying — book service |
| 9P / 233 | Blocking fault: the UBA3 control or the KIM (boiler coding module) is not recognized / defective pro repair | KIM coding plug missing, loose or unreadable; Failed UBA3 control board | Switch off and on once; if the code remains, the unit needs service |
| A01 / 810 | Locking fault: the boiler water (DHW) does not warm up — DHW priority is cancelled. Possible sensor lead, fill-pump, or continuous-draw/leak issue pro repair | DHW sensor lead broken/shorted or sensor faulty; Continuous hot-water draw or a leak; Fill/charge pump fault | Confirm no hot tap or fixture is stuck running/leaking; Switch the boiler off and on once to reset |
| A01 / 816 | Locking fault: no communication on the EMS bus (no connection to the UBA3/MC10). The heating system stops responding to heat demand pro repair | Overloaded or miswired EMS bus; Faulty UBA3/MC10 module; Loose bus wiring to controls | Switch the boiler off and on once; Try a single reset |
| A01 / 828 | Locking fault: the digital water-pressure sensor is generating a fault (sensor defective). No heating, no DHW pro repair | Faulty digital water-pressure sensor; Loose sensor connector/wiring | Check the system pressure on the gauge for reference; Try a single reset; if it persists, the sensor needs service |
| A11 / 816 | Locking fault: room-temperature sensor / remote-control communication or sensor fault on the EMS controller pro repair | Faulty remote control (RC) room sensor; Loose or miswired control bus; Incorrect controller addressing | Confirm the room thermostat/controller is mounted and powered; Switch off and on once |
| H07 | Operating-phase warning: system (water) pressure is too low — below about 12 psi (0.8 bar). The boiler keeps running but flags low pressure DIY-checkable | Gradual water loss from the system; Recent bleeding of radiators; Small leak | Read the system pressure gauge; if low, top up via the filling loop only if you know the procedure; Look for visible leaks at the boiler and pipework |
| CA / 286 | Blocking fault: the return temperature sensor measured a return temperature above 221 F (105 C) — overheat (no heating, no DHW) pro repair | Very low water flow; Seized pump / blockage; Faulty return temperature sensor | Check system pressure on the gauge; Let the boiler cool, then try a single reset |
| C0 / 288 | Blocking fault: the water-pressure sensor contacts are open or shorted (no heating, no DHW) pro repair | Broken or shorted pressure-sensor wiring; Faulty pressure sensor | Try a single reset; if it persists, the sensor/wiring needs service |
| CU / 240 | Blocking fault: the return temperature sensor contacts have shorted (no heating, no DHW) pro repair | Shorted return-sensor wiring; Faulty return temperature sensor | Try a single reset; if it persists, the sensor needs service |
| CY / 241 | Blocking fault: the return temperature sensor contacts have been interrupted (open circuit). No heating, no DHW pro repair | Broken return-sensor wire/connector; Faulty return temperature sensor | Try a single reset; if it persists, the sensor needs service |
| EL / 290 | Locking fault: the UBA3 control or the KIM (coding module) is defective (no heating, no DHW). Also reported on some units as a BC20/main-controller failure pro repair | Failed UBA3 control board; Faulty/unrecognized KIM coding plug | Switch the boiler off and on once; if the code remains, the control needs service |
| rE | Status (not a fault): displayed while a reset is being carried out — appears for a few seconds after the Reset button is held for about 5 seconds DIY-checkable | Normal reset in progress | No action needed — wait for the display to return to normal operation |
Buderus boiler codes we get called for most
6A / 227 — Ignition lockout: insufficient ionization (flame) current — flashing/locking after an unsuccessful ignition, or blocking after 4 failed start-up attempts. No heating, no DHW
Typical causes include gas supply turned off or low gas pressure; dirty or misaligned ignition/ionization electrode; condensate blockage or air in gas line. A few things are safe to check yourself (Confirm the gas supply is on and other gas appliances work; Check the condensate drain/trap is clear), but the repair is a licensed, TSBC-certified gas technician job. HeatLand diagnoses and fixes 6A / 227 on Buderus boilers throughout Greater Vancouver.
6L / 229 — Blocking fault: insufficient ionization current during the operating phase — flame lost while running
Typical causes include marginal gas pressure or partial gas starvation; dirty ionization/flame electrode; condensate or flue restriction. A few things are safe to check yourself (Confirm the gas supply is fully on; Check the condensate drain is clear), but the repair is a licensed, TSBC-certified gas technician job. HeatLand diagnoses and fixes 6L / 229 on Buderus boilers throughout Greater Vancouver.
2E / 207 — Locking fault: system (water) pressure is too low — below 3 psi (0.2 bar). No heating, no DHW
Typical causes include water lost from the system (leak or recent bleeding); system never properly filled; faulty pressure sensor. A few things are safe to check yourself (Read the system pressure gauge — it should be roughly 12-22 psi when cold; if very low, top up via the filling loop only if you know the procedure; Look for visible water leaks around the boiler and pipes), but the repair is a licensed, TSBC-certified gas technician job. HeatLand diagnoses and fixes 2E / 207 on Buderus boilers throughout Greater Vancouver.
0Y / 276 — Locking fault: the flow temperature sensor measured a flow temperature above 203 F (95 C) — overheat
Typical causes include insufficient water flow / low system pressure; seized or air-locked circulator pump; closed isolation valves or blocked heat exchanger. A few things are safe to check yourself (Check the system pressure gauge is in the normal green band (about 12-22 psi) and top up only if you know how; Confirm radiator/zone isolation valves are open), but the repair is a licensed, TSBC-certified gas technician job. HeatLand diagnoses and fixes 0Y / 276 on Buderus boilers throughout Greater Vancouver.
Is it safe to keep running a Buderus boiler with a fault code?
Most Buderus fault codes put the boiler into a safe lockout for a reason. You can safely check the basics — gas supply on, power on, the thermostat calling for heat, system pressure in the normal range, and the condensate drain not frozen or blocked (a common cause in Vancouver cold snaps) — and restart it once. If the code returns, stop and book a technician. If you ever smell gas, leave the building and call your gas utility’s emergency line or 911 first. If a carbon-monoxide alarm sounds, get everyone out and call 911.
Buderus boiler repair across Greater Vancouver
HeatLand has kept Metro Vancouver homes comfortable since 1999. Our licensed, insured technicians diagnose and repair Buderus boilers — ignition faults, flame and sensor errors, low-pressure and pump problems, fan and flue faults, and control-board issues — including units we didn’t install. We’re brand-agnostic, carry common parts, and give you an honest repair-or-replace assessment with upfront pricing and a free estimate. If your boiler is beyond economical repair, we’ll show you right-sized, high-efficiency replacement options and the rebates available.
Need it sorted fast? We offer priority emergency boiler repair. Explore Boiler services, browse all boiler error codes by brand, or request a free estimate.
Buderus boiler service areas
We repair Buderus boilers across Greater Vancouver and the Fraser Valley, including:
Buderus boiler error code FAQs
Can I reset my Buderus boiler myself?
Yes — power-cycling the reset button once is generally safe after you’ve checked the basics (gas supply on, power on, the thermostat calling for heat, system pressure in the normal range, and the condensate drain not frozen or blocked (a common cause in Vancouver cold snaps)). If the boiler faults again right away, stop and note the code — repeatedly resetting a boiler that keeps locking out can mask a real problem. Call a licensed, TSBC-certified gas technician to diagnose it.
What does the Buderus — (flashing dash) code mean?
On Buderus boilers, — (flashing dash) commonly indicates blocking fault: no communication between the uba3 burner control and the bc10 basic controller (no heating, no dhw). Confirm the exact meaning against your unit’s manual — codes can vary by model and series — and have the repair done by a licensed, TSBC-certified gas technician. HeatLand fixes this across Greater Vancouver.
Do you repair Buderus boilers you didn’t install?
Yes. HeatLand is brand-agnostic and services Buderus boilers throughout Metro Vancouver and the Fraser Valley, whether or not we installed the unit. We carry common parts and give you an honest repair-or-replace assessment.
Is a Buderus boiler fault code an emergency?
No heat in cold weather is worth treating urgently. If you ever smell gas, leave the building and call your gas utility’s emergency line or 911 first. If a carbon-monoxide alarm sounds, get everyone out and call 911. For priority boiler repair across Greater Vancouver, call (604) 330-3812.
How much does Buderus boiler repair cost in Vancouver?
It depends on the fault. Many Buderus codes point to sensors, ignition or pump parts — usually far cheaper than replacement. We give upfront pricing and a free estimate before any work.
Buderus boiler acting up in Metro Vancouver? HeatLand’s licensed, TSBC-certified gas technicians diagnose and repair Buderus boilers across Greater Vancouver — including units we didn’t install.
Call (604) 330-3812Get a free repair estimateNo heat? Emergency repairMore Boiler error-code guides
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